Before we designed a single piece, we wanted to understand the fabric we'd be working with. Not just how it looks on a screen or feels in a shop, but where it comes from. That question took us to Varanasi.
A city woven into silk
Varanasi, also known as Banaras, has been one of India's great weaving centres for centuries. The city is best known for Banarasi silk and brocade, fabrics with patterns woven directly into the cloth, often with gold and silver zari. Banaras brocades and sarees are protected by a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, which recognises them as a craft tied to the region.
How handloom weaving works
On a handloom, every row of fabric is woven by hand. The weaver passes the weft thread through the warp, line by line, and for brocade adds extra threads to build up the pattern. Intricate pieces can take days or even weeks, and the skill is often passed down through families over generations.
That's also why handwoven fabric is never perfectly uniform. Small variations in colour, texture or the placement of a motif are a sign that a person made it, not a machine.
What it changed for us
Being there gave us a different perspective. It reminded us that every fabric has its own character, and that understanding where it comes from shapes the way you design with it. Some fabrics want structure. Some want to move. Some want to be left almost untouched.
It's the reason we see variations in our pieces as part of their charm, not a flaw. And it's why we wanted at least part of our first collection to come directly from Varanasi's looms.
From the loom to The Golden Hour
Our Lumina Dress is made in cotton silk handwoven by Varanasi artisans, finished with two-toned zari stripes that stay quiet until you move. Because every metre is woven by hand, no two dresses are exactly alike.
The rest of The Golden Hour carries the same idea: Indian textiles, given room to exist in a modern form.
Why it matters
Handloom is slow. In a world of fast fashion, that's exactly what makes it worth protecting. Choosing handwoven fabric means choosing craft, character and the people behind it.
We're only at the beginning of learning about it, and we'll keep sharing what we discover here and on Instagram at @kashiejournal.